HIGH ALTITUDE COOKERY

By Jill Kartushyn, BSc (Hec)

Cooking and baking at altitudes above 2,500 ft can present an incredible challenge for even the most experienced cook. One can only truly appreciate the ease of preparing foods at a lower elevation after the trial and error of baking a cake or a loaf of bread in the shadow of the Rockies. Instead of a well risen, velvety, moist textured cake, the result is an underbaked, coarse textured catastrophe. Changes in altitude have the greatest effect on baking, as the quality of the final product is dependent upon a delicate balance of ingredients. Some trial and error is still required when adjusting recipes to high altitude conditions, but the following cooking and baking tips will provide you with a start in the right direction.

Changes in Cooking & Baking At High Elevations

As the elevation increases, atmospheric pressure decreases due to a thinner blanket of air, resulting in the following changes that can affect cooking and baking to various degrees:

• Lowered Boiling Point of Water

  Foods cooked in water or steam, such as eggs, pasta, dried legumes, vegetables, and stews, or baked in the oven will take longer to achieve desired doneness the higher the elevation. Candy making and boiling water bath processing of preserves, pickles and fruits will also be affected as will canned foods prepared in a pressure canner.

  Why? Vapor bubbles are formed when a liquid is heated. As the bubbles are formed, they become lighter than the surrounding liquid, rising towards the surface as the pressure within each bubble just exceeds the atmospheric pressure on the surface of the liquid. The temperature at which the vapor bubbles break through the surface of the liquid is the boiling point. Thus, as the elevation increases, atmospheric pressure decreases resulting in a lower boiling temperature. Foods baked in the oven will also be affected, requiring longer baking times. The internal temperature of a cake during baking is lower at high altitudes than at sea level. This can cause baked goods to be underdone when baked for the time specified in an unadjusted recipe.

• Increased Rate of Evaporation

  Due to the lowered boiling temperature of water, moisture will evaporate at a faster rate the higher the elevation. This can result in drier baked goods with a coarse and crumbly texture. Rapid evaporation can also cause ingredients such as fat and sugar to become over concentrated in baked goods, affecting the final product. As fat and sugar become overly concentrated, they begin to act as an insulator to the egg protein, thereby raising the temperature required to set the batter. Fat and sugar also act as tenderizing agents in a baked good and when found in very high concentrations, can weaken the cell walls causing cakes and doughs to collapse.

• Drier Ingredients

  At higher elevations, the lack of moisture in the air will affect common dry ingredients such as flour and sugar. Because flour is hygroscopic it acts as a sponge, taking up and releasing moisture with changes in the environment. Without adjustments to compensate for the drier ingredients, baked goods such as cakes, breads and quick breads will be drier and have a coarser crumb.

• Leavening Agents Rise More Rapidly

  Lower atmospheric pressure in high altitude areas allow leavening ingredients, such as yeast, baking powder, baking soda, and cream of tartar to expand more readily. The carbon dioxide gas bubbles released by the leavener become larger and more numerous. The dough or batter walls between the bubbles become thinner and weaker. Without correcting ingredient proportions, the walls of the bubbles may collapse causing the bread or cake to fall. When eggs are used as a leavening agent, overbeating can incorporate too much air into the batter. The cell structure will weaken, resulting in a collapsed cake.

Adapting Recipes to High Altitude Conditions

Yeast Breads

Yeast breads rise more rapidly at high altitudes and may become overproofed if not watched carefully. Oven spring, the immediate rising of the dough in a hot oven, becomes even more pronounced at higher elevations. When yeast breads rise too quickly, the cell structure of the dough stretches or breaks before the heat has set the expanding gas cells. When this occurs, breads will be coarse textured and may collapse during the baking process as the structure of the bread may be too weak to support the volume of dough. Rapid rising will also compromise the taste of the bread, as the flavour has not had adequate time to develop. The slower the proof, the more complex and interesting the flavour.

For best results:

• Allow breads to rise only until almost doubled in bulk. This will provide enough elasticity in the dough cell structure to allow for additional rising when shaped, and when placed in a hot oven.
• Because flour dries out faster at higher altitudes, it may be necessary to use less flour to compensate. Too much flour will result in bread that is dry and heavily textured.
• Use a good quality, high gluten flour. Gluten, the gummy protein found in wheat flour, is responsible for forming the elastic structural network that holds the carbon dioxide released from the yeast.
• Increase baking time approximately 10 - 15 minutes.
• Do not eliminate the salt in your bread recipe. Salt acts as a stabilizer to the yeast, keeping the production of carbon dioxide gas in check. Bread dough made without salt rises very rapidly, producing bread that is inferior in flavour and texture.

Cake Batters

Probably the most affected by changes in altitude, some trial and error may be necessary to fine-tune your favourite cake recipe. As leavening agents are most affected at higher elevations, the first adjustment you may typically make to your recipe will be in the quantities of baking powder, baking soda, or cream of tartar. Note that not all of the following adjustments will be necessary to an individual recipe - you be the judge.

*For more information on cakes in this website, see CAKES under SHOPPING & PREPARATION.

For best results:

• Reduce baking powder or baking soda by .5 mL (1/8 tsp) for each teaspoon called for in the recipe. However, do not reduce baking soda beyond 2 ml (1/2 tsp) for each cup of sour milk or sour cream used.
• Double acting baking powder (sodium aluminum sulfate) is preferable when baking at high altitudes as the leavening is activated in two stages: when blended with liquid and when subjected to heat. This allows the cake to rise more slowly.
• When eggs are used as a leavening, take care not to overbeat. Beat egg whites to soft peaks that gently fold over. Overbeaten egg whites will often result in a dry, tough textured cake that may collapse during baking.
• Reduce the sugar by 15 - 25 ml (1 - 2 tbsp) for each cupful called for in the recipe; the sugar quantity should not greatly exceed half the flour quantity (in a butter type cake). Cakes with a high sugar concentration will be coarse textured and crumbly with a thick, sugary crust.
• Use extra large eggs instead of large. This provides additional protein to strengthen the cell structure of the batter, as well as add additional moisture to the cake.
• To compensate for the loss of moisture in dry ingredients, add 15 - 25 ml (1 - 2 tbsp) of liquid for each cupful called for in the recipe. Additional liquid will also offset the rapid evaporation of moisture during the baking process. Cake recipes with the addition of acidic dairy ingredients such as buttermilk, yogurt and sour cream will produce a finer crumb and velvety texture.
• When making a very rich butter or shortening cake, reduce the fat by 15 - 25 ml (1 - 2 tbsp).
• In all products baked in the oven, with the exception of cookies, the time required for baking will increase. It is advisable not to alter baking temperature as this may result in a scorched product. Increase baking times by approximately 8 - 10 minutes for a round layer cake, and 15 - 20 minutes for a square cake.

Candies & Frostings

When candies, frostings and icings are cooked, the different stages of syrup hardness are achieved at lower temperatures in high altitude areas, and will take less time to cook than at sea level due to the rapid rate of evaporation.

For best results:

• To adjust for high altitude, measure the temperature of boiling water using a candy thermometer. Subtract this from 100°C or 212°F, the temperature of boiling water at sea level. The resulting difference is then subtracted from the temperature given in the recipe. This is the new, lowered temperature required to ensure the sugar solution is not overcooked. Taking the temperature of boiling water at the start of each candy making session will also ensure the accuracy of your thermometer, allowing adjustments to be made accordingly.

Biscuits, Muffins & Quick Breads

Because of the structure of these products, they are typically able to withstand increased internal pressure quite well, so adjustments to the ingredients may be minimal. If dry ingredients are quite dry, increase liquids as required for Cake Batters. A longer baking time may be required for quick breads, and can be increased by approximately 10-20 minutes.

Cookies

Minimal adjustments may be required, such as a slight reduction in baking powder in cookies rich in chocolate, nuts or dates. Ensure dry ingredients are measured accurately and avoid overbaking cookies. Store soft cookies in an airtight container to minimize moisture loss.

Pressure Cooking

As foods take longer to cook at high altitudes, a pressure cooker allows the cook to prepare foods under pressure inside the cooker to near that of sea level. Therefore, the boiling temperature of liquids is increased allowing food to cook in less time, preserving moisture and nutrients.

For best results:

• In cooking with steam pressure, the temperature within the cooker must be considered as well as the pressure. In the cooker, the identical pressure will produce a lower temperature at high altitudes due to the reduced pressure exerted on boiling liquids. To reach the desired temperature, the pressure must be increased by 1 lb for each 2,000 ft. in elevation. Some cookers will only register 15 LB of pressure. In this case, lengthening the cooking time may be necessary. Be sure to consult your instruction manual that accompanies your pressure cooker.

Preserving

To ensure home preserved high acid foods (such as fruits, pickles, preserves, and condiments) and low acid foods (such as vegetables, meat and seafood) are prepared and canned safely, processing times will need adjusting starting at altitudes of 1,000 ft (305 M) above sea level.

Whether in a boiling water bath for high acid foods or pressure canner for low acid foods, heat processing of canned foods destroys or inactivates microorganisms such as yeasts, molds and bacteria, as well as the life threatening clostridium botulinum organism that can cause spoilage and illness if consumed.

*For more information on preserving in this website, see CANNING under FOOD PRESERVATION.

Altitude Adjustments for BOILING WATER BATH CANNING

Altitude

Increase processing time if the time called for is:

Feet	Metres	20 minutes or less	20 minutes or more
1,000	305	1 minute	2 minutes
2,000	610	2 minutes	4 minutes
3,000	914	3 minutes	6 minutes
4,000	1,219	4 minutes	8 minutes
5,000	1524	5 minutes	10 minutes
6,000	1829	6 minutes	12 minutes
7,000	2,134	7 minutes	14 minutes

Altitude Adjustments for PRESSURE CANNING

Altitude

Process at pressure of *psi

Feet	Metres	Pressure
2,000 - 3,000	610 - 914	11 1/2
3,000 - 4,000	914 - 1,219	12
4,000 - 5,000	1,219 - 1,524	12 1/2
5,000 - 6,000	1,524 - 1,829	13
6,000 - 7,000	1,829 - 2,134	13 1/2

*psi - pounds per square inch (pounds of pressure)

Altitude Adjusted Recipes

Yorkshire Pudding

1 cup	all purpose flour	250 ml
1/2 tsp	salt	2 ml
1/2 cup	milk	125 ml
1/2 cup	water	125 ml
2	eggs	2
	shortening

1. Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C). Set aside a 12 cup muffin tin.
2. In a 2 cup (500 ml) liquid measuring cup, combine flour and salt.
3. Make a well in centre of dry ingredients. Add milk, water and eggs. Stir together until blended.
4. In each muffin cup, place 1/2 tsp (2 ml) shortening. Place in oven and heat until fat is bubbly but not smoking.
5. To prevent excessive loss of heat, fill muffin cups while on oven rack. Place 1/4 cup (50 ml) batter into each muffin cup.
6. Bake 20 minutes. Reduce oven heat to 350°F (180°C) and bake 10 - 15 minutes longer. DO NOT open oven door while baking.

Yield: 12 Yorkshire Puddings.

Chocolate Cake

1/2 cup	butter, softened	125 ml
1 1/2 cup	granulated sugar	375 ml
3	eggs, beaten	3
1/2 cup	cocoa	125 ml
1/3 cup	hot water	75 ml
1 tsp	baking soda	5 ml
1 cup	milk	250 ml
1 3/4 cup	sifted cake flour	425 ml
1/2 tsp	baking powder	2 ml
1/2 tsp	salt	2 ml
1 tsp	vanilla extract	5 ml

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease and flour two 9" round cake pans.
2. In large bowl, cream butter with sugar until light and fluffy. Add beaten eggs; beat well.
3. In small bowl, combine cocoa and hot water; blend until smooth. Add to creamed mixture, blending well.
4. In measuring cup, dissolve baking soda in milk.
5. In medium bowl, combine sifted flour with baking powder and salt.
6. Add dry ingredients, alternating with milk, to creamed mixture, mixing thoroughly after each addition. Add vanilla, mixing well. Batter will seem thin. Pour batter into prepared pans, dividing evenly. Tap gently to release air bubbles.
7. Bake 30 - 35 minutes or until cake centre springs back when lightly pressed with a fingertip. Allow to cool on racks.
8. Fill and frost with your favourite butter cream frosting.

Yield: two 9" round cakes.

Sour Cream Coffee Cake

3/4 cup	butter, softened	175 ml
1 1/2 cup	granulated sugar	375 ml
2	eggs	2
1 cup	sour cream	250 ml
1 tsp	vanilla extract	5 ml
2 cups	sifted cake flour	500 ml
1 tsp	baking powder	5 ml
1/4 tsp	salt	1 ml

Cocoa Pecan Mixture :

2 tbsp	firmly packed brown sugar	25 ml
1 tsp	cocoa	5 ml
1 tsp	granulated sugar	5 ml
1/2 tsp	cinnamon	2 ml
1/2 cup	ground pecans	125 ml

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease and flour a 9" (3L) tube pan.
2. In large bowl, cream butter with sugar until light and fluffy.
3. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Blend in sour cream and vanilla extract.
4. In medium bowl, combine sifted flour, baking powder and salt.
5. Add dry ingredients a little at a time to creamed mixture, mixing thoroughly after each addition.
6. In small bowl, combine ingredients for Cocoa Pecan Mixture.
7. Spoon half of batter into prepared pan. Sprinkle with two-thirds of Cocoa Pecan Mixture. Spoon remaining batter into pan and top with remaining Cocoa Pecan Mixture.
8. Bake 50 - 60 minutes, or until cake centre springs back when gently pressed with a fingertip. Allow to cool.

Yield: 12 servings.

Sources:

"High Altitude Cookery," Canadian Western Natural Gas Blue Flame Kitchen, Calgary.

The New High Altitude Cookbook. Beverly M. Anderson and Donna M. Hamilton. Random House, New York, 1980.