INTERFACING, LINING AND UNDERLINING

By Ron Collins

Ron Collins is a Saskatoon designer and sewing expert who travels across North America giving presentations at shows. He shared these tips with University of Saskatchewan home economics education students.

There are a number of interfacings, underlinings and linings on the market that can help give the garment you sew a more professional appearance. Knowing what to use and how to handle it is one of the keys to successful sewing.

Interfacing gives shape and support in areas such as a jacket front, side front, facing or an upper or lower collar. It is available as a sew-in fabric or a fusible fabric.

Underlining can be fabric, fusible or sew-in interfacing. The underlining is cut exactly the same size as the pattern piece. If fabric is used as an underlining it is basted to the wrong side of the fashion fabric. If interfacing is used it will be fused directly to the fabric and extended into the seam allowance. This technique gives the outer fabric more shape and support.

Interlining is a thermal layer of fabric or insulation such as Thinsulate used in coats and jackets. The interlining is sewn in between the fashion fabric and the lining.

Lining is the material that covers the inner construction of the garment. It also helps maintain the garment's shape, reduces wrinkles and prevents clinging. Lining adds wealth to any garment.

Choose the right interfacing for the job
Interfacings are designed for specific purposes.  Some are sew in and some are fusible. They may be preshrunk or require preshrinking at home. Knowing what to buy and how to handle the material can save both time and money.

How to shrink interfacings
Some interfacings are labelled preshrunk. All others should be preshrunk by soaking in hot water for 15 minutes, drain the water off and lay on a flat surface to dry.

How to fuse interfacings
Lower the ironing board to achieve maximum pressure. Put iron on steam setting and apply pressure for 8 to 10 seconds.

Armo Shirt Shaper is a sew-in 25 /75 percent polyester rayon blend that will break down over time. It is often used to draft patterns.

Crafter's Choice is a fusible 20/80 percent polyester rayon blend used to stabilize pattern pieces. It will break down over time but is suitable for one-wear fabrics such as costumes.

Touch of Gold is a temporary bond cool-fuse-100 -percent rayon material designed for fabrics which don't like heat such as silk, microfiber, and polyurethane. Use a low temperature to apply and do not press on Teflon ironing board cover as this type of cover causes interfacings to bubble.

Fuse Knit is a fusible tricot 100 percent polyester underlining that cuts creasing.

Armo Rite is a fusible 100 percent polyester interfacing cut on the bias so it is suitable for ties.

Sewer's Dream is fusible 100 percent polyester good for shirts because you can fuse both sides of the collar, collar bands and cuffs.

Sew Sure is a sew-in 50/50 polyester rayon blend that can be used on any gabardine.

Acro is a sew- in 54/27/7 percent polyester, hair wool fabric particularly suitable for easement in sleeves.

Stylemaker 601 is a fusible 38/62 percent polyester viscose material that is preshrunk. It is used in the sleeves and back of jackets.

Stylemaker 602 is a fusible 38/62 percent polyester viscose fusible preshrunk material used as an interfacing in jackets.

 Silk organza used as an underlining for linen pants reduces creasing by 40 percent. It should be basted to the wrong side of the fabric.


Sources for these materials include:
HTC Inc                                            
393 Crescent Avenue, Suite M
Wyckoff, NJ 07481
USA
Toll free: 888-275-4275
Website: htc-inc.net

Central Sewing Machines Inc.
8649-63 Ave
Edmonton
Phone: 780-469-1147
A Great Notions Sewing Supply Ltd
Toll free: 1-800-309-2829
Website: www.agreatnotion.com