BUYING CLOTHING

Clothing Quality

Grain - All garment parts should be cut on the grain of the fabric in order to hang and wear well.

Matching of pattern - A definite pattern, whether it is striped, checked or plaid should be matched carefully in a ready-made garment. Check the armhole, waistline and centre seams. Each side of zippered or buttoned front closures should match.

Stitching - Hand or machine stitches should be small, even in length, neat straight and the ends should be secured. Check both sides of the seam to ensure proper tension. Topstitching should be even and straight.

Seams - A seam finish will give longer wear, particularly in wovens. Seams should lie smoothly and be even in width. Wide seams allow for alterations and can withstand greater strain. Seams should be straight and in the correct position.

Reinforcements are important at points where there will be strain. Some types of reinforcements include interfacings, extra stitching, metal rivets and bar tacks.

Hems should be even in width and smooth. A generous hem allows for further lengthening, particularly important on children's wear. Hemming should not show on the right side. Jacket and skirt hems should be parallel to the floor and should be wide enough to be adjusted if necessary to allow for changes in style length. Avoid clothing which has hems sewn with nylon thread in the chainstitch. Once one stitch goes, the whole hem will rip out.

Lining, interfacing and trims should be a fabric that requires care similar to the garment itself.

Closures, such as zipper plackets, should be flat, inconspicuous and long enough to allow ease in getting into and out of garment. Long coats should have a two-way zipper so that the zipper can be released from the bottom when sitting.

Hooks and eyes, domes, buttons and trimmings should be securely attached. Buttons and trimmings should be suited to the fabric and occasions for which the garment will be worn.

Buttonholes should be firm, cut on grain, and have well reinforced ends. They should fit easily over the buttons - not being too long or too short.

Fit - The garment should feel comfortable and should adjust naturally to the movement of the wearer. It shouldn't wrinkle or sag.

Lines - Centre front and back should be in line with the body. Neckline should lie flat against the body; collars should fit smoothly and closely at the neckline. Sleeves, unless puffed, should be without gather, but lie loosely in the upper arm allowing for movement. Skirt pleats should hang straight, perpendicular to the floor and remain closed when wearer stands still.

Darts and Tucks - Darts and tucks should point to the fullest part of the body over which the fabric is to be controlled.

Ease - the garment is comfortable when the wearer stands, sits or moves around. It should not feel tight or strained.

Sleeves - Should end at the wristbone when the arm is bent.

Jackets/coats - There should be sufficient ease across back when arms are brought forward. Should be sufficient width at the hipline so jacket can overlap at centre front when buttons are closed.

Pants - Should not bag "smile" or bag in the crotch.

Skirts and dresses - front and back of skirt should be the same length unless the hemline is irregular (e.g. handkerchief hemline).

Facings - Should not show.

Undergarments - Avoid acetate undergarments because they tend to go limp after only a few washings. Make sure elastic is well attached. Avoid closures or fabrics that may be scratchy or binding. Choose undergarments with your outergarments in mind. For smooth-fitting and body-hugging garments, you'll want smooth-fitting, plain undergarments.

Source: Saskatchewan 4-H Council